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I understand that smokeless lube is generally not compatible with BP. I also understand that lube for bullets used in BP cartridges serves more than one purpose, including keeping the fouling soft. When loading powdercoated or plated projectiles in BP cartridge do you use lube on bullet or a lubed cookie, etc, to keep fouling soft?
 
I've seen guys pour tallow/beeswax into a pan with cast bullets upright to fill the lube gaps, then press them out of the hardened cooled lube block ready to load.

Anytime you use BP in a cartridge, you have to expect a big cleaning job, especially with a revolver since the BP residue can build up on the spindle and cause stoppage. A spritz of moose milk on the rotating parts can keep you going at least twice as long.
 
I would not recommend anything but bare lead since BP shooting is low pressure and low velocity will not lead up the bore. The risk of a squib with copper plated projectiles is higher.
 
The people I know that shoot a lot of BP cartridges are Cowboy action shooters. They found that in a match that extended to 200 rounds in a day, modern lube bullets did not hold enough lube to keep the fouling soft. So, they were cleaning during the match. To stop this, they started putting a thin lube cookie under the bullet. This worked on the fouling but on a hot day could melt into the powder and foul the load. So a guy named Dastardly Dick designed a big lube bullet that held twice as much lube in one big lube groove.
If I were going to load a lot of BP cartridges locating a big lube groove bullet mold would be worth it. but for just a few hundred I would lube the bullet with a good BP lube, use an over powder wad with a lube cookie between the wad and bullet.


about 8 posts down theres a pic of a 44 cal bullet. DR
 
The only way I would EVER run coated/plated bullets in a B.P. firearm is with Sabots! Your Rifling will thank you, most B.P. Firearms are NOT designed to use plated/coated projectiles and fowling is going to be an issue, just not the way most think. You can paper patch with under sized bullets, but I wouldn't recommend doing that ether!

Stick with Cast bullets with good grease grooves, and don't skimp on good lube! Good old fashioned Bore Butter is all you really need, and you can get extra fancy and make your own, I highly recommend getting yourself plenty of Bear and Deer tallow and work from there, a good thick paste like lube is what your after! If your worried about fowling after a few shot strings. your missing the whole point, slow down and enjoy more, while shooting less. and spend the extra few min. cleaning between shot strings, your rifle or pistol will thank you, and besides, you need to allow things to cool anyways, so I also recommend an ice cold jug of Sweet Tea, or Apple Cider for sippin purposes whilst out and about shootin!
 
I am trying to work with what I have not complicate things. Here are 20rnds, I just put together with a BP sub that should limit fouling. It won't satisfy the purist but it will still make some smoke. I will be trying these out in the morning.

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Edit: I may add a touch of lard to a few bores like they do to prevent chain fires in cap & ball revolvers.
 
The only way I would EVER run coated/plated bullets in a B.P. firearm is with Sabots! Your Rifling will thank you, most B.P. Firearms are NOT designed to use plated/coated projectiles and fowling is going to be an issue, just not the way most think. You can paper patch with under sized bullets, but I wouldn't recommend doing that ether!

Stick with Cast bullets with good grease grooves, and don't skimp on good lube! Good old fashioned Bore Butter is all you really need, and you can get extra fancy and make your own, I highly recommend getting yourself plenty of Bear and Deer tallow and work from there, a good thick paste like lube is what your after! If your worried about fowling after a few shot strings. your missing the whole point, slow down and enjoy more, while shooting less. and spend the extra few min. cleaning between shot strings, your rifle or pistol will thank you, and besides, you need to allow things to cool anyways, so I also recommend an ice cold jug of Sweet Tea, or Apple Cider for sippin purposes whilst out and about shootin!
I am going to be shooting these out of a modern Rossi 357mag revolver. Rifling should handle it.
 
I am trying to work with what I have not complicate things. Here are 20rnds, I just put together with a BP sub that should limit fouling. It won't satisfy the purist but it will still make some smoke. I will be trying these out in the morning.

View attachment 1907583
Are you using these in a Modern Firearm? If so, no special attention should be needed, besides just making sure you have some sort of lube on the bullets!

If your using an original Black Powder cartridge firearm, then I would only use lead with B.P. Specific lube!
 
Rifling...
Something to consider here...

Even with so called replicas....while the rifling may be of the correct twist for caliber and black powder...
Most often with modern firearms and replicas....the rifling is cut too shallow and leads to fouling quicker.

Having shot black powder cartridges in original , replica and even modern firearms like the OP...
I can say that the replicas and modern guns foul much faster than original black powder cartridge firearms.
Andy
 
I have lots of lubed cast bullets but what I have read is that the normal lubed used on smokeless bullets will make fouling worse. If the sub doesn't give me a clean enough burn, I will try something else.
 
Rifling...
Something to consider here...

Even with so called replicas....while the rifling may be of the correct twist for caliber and black powder...
Most often with modern firearms and replicas....the rifling is cut too shallow and leads to fouling quicker.

Having shot black powder cartridges in original , replica and even modern firearms like the OP...
I can say that the replicas and modern guns foul much faster than original black powder cartridge firearms.
Andy
Given that information, I think I will apply a dab of bore butter to the cylinder bores like so:

1000003316.jpg
 
Given that information, I think I will apply a dab of bore butter to the cylinder bores like so:

View attachment 1907614
Well....you could do that.
That said....bore butter smeared like that will attract debris.

Bore butter or other lube is often smeared like that on the cylinder face of cap and ball revolvers...to help prevent chain fires.
I have heard and read , that it will also help soften or reduce fouling....but I haven't really seen this to be true in my shooting.
Andy
 
Rather than filling the end of the chamber with bore butter, you might try just dipping the bullet end in before loading. I suspect you the gun and your bench are going to be covered in lube very quickly. just like using a thin lube cookie it only takes a little more lube.
If you fill the end the lube will spray out the cylinder gap and out the muzzle. a little dab will keep the bore wet without spraying lube everywhere.
I want to see pics ! DR
 
Rather than filling the end of the chamber with bore butter, you might try just dipping the bullet end in before loading. I suspect you the gun and your bench are going to be covered in lube very quickly. just like using a thin lube cookie it only takes a little more lube.
If you fill the end the lube will spray out the cylinder gap and out the muzzle. a little dab will keep the bore wet without spraying lube everywhere.
I want to see pics ! DR
Yep lube in front doesn't work well. First shot and the rest of bores lube was gone, lol. I shot the remaining shots without lube. It was a blast shooting them, lots and lots of smoke. By shot 13 the cylinder started getting sticky, making the hammer more difficult to pull back. I got through all 20 with no cleaning. After I got home, I squirted a little lysol all purpose cleaner on the cylinder rotating post and was able to get the cylinder spinning well again. Next time I will bring something like that with me in the field. I used that Lysol cleaner to clean the revolver and it worked fantastic. The first patch looked pretty ugly. After fifth patch it wasn't looking to bad. It cleaned up a lot easier than I thought it would.

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Edit: after using Lysol cleaner, I ran some Hoppes #9 through it and then dry patches. They all looked clean. That Lysol cleaner does the trick.


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