Need advice on changing AR15 forend to accept wood furniture

[Starslinger]

I have a Fightlite SCR with a wood butt stock. But the front of the rifle just doesn't match and I'm thinking about buying a wood forend from Blackgunswood.com. I've been shooting my AK for a few years but the AR platform is new to me. A gunsmith put the SCR together for me. Apparently I'll need a round cup and a delta ring to hold the ends of the wood forend. Can someone explain to me what parts I need to do this? Do I need a whole new upper receiver or a complete upper? Or can the metal forend be removed and just add the delta ring and round cup? Will I need a new barrel for the round cup or delta ring to clamp on to? Do I need an A1 or A2 upper? I'm confused. I don't need the retro A1/A2 handle/sights - I want to keep the red dot. Thank you for any advice on this. (Also, this is a project - I'd rather not hear about how metal is more durable than wood in the jungle or the arctic. My AK is my primary defense gun. Thanks!)

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[msgriff]

If you wanted to use your existing upper and barrel, you will need a delta ring assembly and (most likely) change the existing barrel nut to a mil-spec barrel nut. You will also need a triangular (A1) cap at the front for the handguard shown. Your SCR looks like mid-length gas, but verify before ordering the handguard. Also check barrel length and/or whether your muzzle device is pinned and welded, which would add significant extra steps to the job.
Not sure that I would go without the ability to have iron sights, which would require the gas journal where your gas block is to be 1.92" long, some are only ~1" long (not to be confused with gas journal diameter, which 0.750" is the most common, but should be verified before replacing the gas block). I would also not use a gas block/FSB that is not pinned, whether as the primary attachment means or as a secondary means, but people have used clamp-on and set screw only type gas blocks with drop-in handguards.

 

[FATAL125]

If you wanted to use your existing upper and barrel, you will need a delta ring assembly and (most likely) change the existing barrel nut to a mil-spec barrel nut. You will also need a triangular (A1) cap at the front for the handguard shown. Your SCR looks like mid-length gas, but verify before ordering the handguard. Also check barrel length and/or whether your muzzle device is pinned and welded, which would add significant extra steps to the job.
Not sure that I would go without the ability to have iron sights, which would require the gas journal where your gas block is to be 1.92" long, some are only ~1" long (not to be confused with gas journal diameter, which 0.750" is the most common, but should be verified before replacing the gas block). I would also not use a gas block/FSB that is not pinned, whether as the primary attachment means or as a secondary means, but people have used clamp-on and set screw only type gas blocks with drop-in handguards.

Doesn't get better than this... ☝☝

 

[kmk1012]

I have a Fightlite SCR with a wood butt stock. But the front of the rifle just doesn't match and I'm thinking about buying a wood forend from Blackgunswood.com. I've been shooting my AK for a few years but the AR platform is new to me. A gunsmith put the SCR together for me. Apparently I'll need a round cup and a delta ring to hold the ends of the wood forend. Can someone explain to me what parts I need to do this? Do I need a whole new upper receiver or a complete upper? Or can the metal forend be removed and just add the delta ring and round cup? Will I need a new barrel for the round cup or delta ring to clamp on to? Do I need an A1 or A2 upper? I'm confused. I don't need the retro A1/A2 handle/sights - I want to keep the red dot. Thank you for any advice on this. (Also, this is a project - I'd rather not hear about how metal is more durable than wood in the jungle or the arctic. My AK is my primary defense gun. Thanks!)

View attachment 1907229 View attachment 1907230 View attachment 1907231

I assembled a wood furniture AR for my son's birthday a couple years back. He loves the thing, super accurate, was killing ground squirrels over East at 200+ yards easily. Every time it's at the range people just have to see it or holds it, quite the convo piece. The above explanation is very accurate and detailed, take their advice and good luck. We need pics when done.

 

[ZA_Survivalist]

I'd simply get those wood Mlok panels they make to match the buttstock! That way it evens it out and you don't have to change the upper or add parts to the rifle outside of the panels.

 

[Starslinger]

I tried the wood m-lok panels and I didn't like the way it looked.

I'd simply get those wood Mlok panels they make to match the buttstock! That way it evens it out and you don't have to change the upper or add parts to the rifle outside of the panels.

 

[Starslinger]

Would it be cheaper to just buy this?

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[msgriff]

Would it be cheaper to just buy this?

BROWNELLS AR-15 16in 5.56 M4 Barrel Group 1-7 Carbine Gas SKU: 430104607 | Brownells

Check out the BROWNELLS AR-15 16in 5.56 M4 Barrel Group 1-7 Carbine Gas SKU: 430104607 available Online at Brownells Today and many more Rifle Barrels & Parts products are available in our Gun Parts Department.

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Nothing wrong with that barrel, and it is chrome lined, but the biggest issue is the round cap. That can be changed to a triangle cap to work with the handguard show in you pics, though. The other obvious differences between your existing barrel and the one you linked would be personal preference, such as carbine vs mid-length gas and the appearance of the M203 cut forward of the FSB.

Is this a project that you intend on doing yourself, or by gunsmith?

Here's a pic of a barrel from BKF that is closer to your existing barrel specs, and has the triangle cap. Around $200.

 

[Starslinger]

If I do this, I will pay the gunsmith to do the work.

 

[msgriff]

If I do this, I will pay the gunsmith to do the work.

I can give you my opinion on some rough costs to compare modifying your existing barrel (assuming it has the correct gas journal length) to a new barrel assembly.

The delta assy, barrel nut, FSB, cap, and misc parts would be around $75 - $100 for the "budget" versions. Buy those yourself and supply them to the gunsmith.
Pinning the FSB is the hardest part, and some gunsmiths don't (or shouldn't) do it. $100 - $125 labor.

The upper disassembly and reassembly should cost the same no matter which way you go, but I'd figure on $60 -$80 labor.