- Messages
- 18,744
- Reactions
- 45,466
I didn't know of the alleged exploding thing, its all the other stuff that kills it for me.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I really like my Odin as well, worked great for me last night for the exact intended purpose. Was nice to be able to count on it. Although, out of the two that I have, one was dead because of my lack of charging it in the last 12 months (my fault). But, I alway live by one is none and two is one, works every time most of the time , LOL.I got an Odin with a smaller one last year in a package deal when they were on sale for $99. Really like the Odin. Super bright and the mount is easy to use. Haven't had any problem with it discharging on it's own that someone else mentioned. USB charging is super simple with the magnetic twist connection. From what I've heard, the battery issue was resolved several years ago and was the fault of the battery manufacturer, not Olight.
The pad works great and is also easy to use. Click for steady on and keep it pressed for momentary.
The mini light that came with it is nothing special and just uses a regular battery.
Interesting...I have the Baldr mini and love it. My light is bright as hell and right on target and the laser holds zero for me. Perhaps you got a defective unit? As far as the laser changing with distance, I'm pretty sure that's how it works... The only way it will be exactly perfect at all distances is if the laser comes straight out of the barrel the same place the bullet comes out. Generally a person zeros the laser at a specific distance which puts the beam at a very slight angle, thereby naturally causing the dot to differ in location depending on distance. You just have to place the dot above or below the target a little based on where you have it sighted at. You can set the laser to be parallel with the barrel. You would then just have to keep in mind that it will always be an inch(ish) below where the bullet is going to hit.I had the Baldr Mini and hated it. The light was aimed off to one side and you can't do anything about that. The laser was not in line with the barrel so you zero it and then every time you change your distance the dot moves inches because its not pointing straight in line with the barrel. No clicks or detents on the zeroing so it doesn't hold. On and on my complaints went. I will not buy another Olight.
Above or below makes sense because the laser unit is below the barrel on the rail. Mine changed side to side because it was off to one side of the barrel, so it had to aim slightly right to be zeroed. So when I got further away it moved up and right drastically.Interesting...I have the Baldr mini and love it. My light is bright as hell and right on target and the laser holds zero for me. Perhaps you got a defective unit? As far as the laser changing with distance, I'm pretty sure that's how it works... The only way it will be exactly perfect at all distances is if the laser comes straight out of the barrel the same place the bullet comes out. Generally a person zeros the laser at a specific distance which puts the beam at a very slight angle, thereby naturally causing the dot to differ in location depending on distance. You just have to place the dot above or below the target a little based on where you have it sighted at. You can set the laser to be parallel with the barrel. You would then just have to keep in mind that it will always be an inch(ish) below where the bullet is going to hit.
Ah, Gotcha. Sounds like screwed up internals. Appreciate the clarification.Above or below makes sense because the laser unit is below the barrel on the rail. Mine changed side to side because it was off to one side of the barrel, so it had to aim slightly right to be zeroed. So when I got further away it moved up and right drastically.
It depends on the method of how it is zeroed...Parallel vs Converging...Interesting...I have the Baldr mini and love it. My light is bright as hell and right on target and the laser holds zero for me. Perhaps you got a defective unit? As far as the laser changing with distance, I'm pretty sure that's how it works... The only way it will be exactly perfect at all distances is if the laser comes straight out of the barrel the same place the bullet comes out. Generally a person zeros the laser at a specific distance which puts the beam at a very slight angle, thereby naturally causing the dot to differ in location depending on distance. You just have to place the dot above or below the target a little based on where you have it sighted at. You can set the laser to be parallel with the barrel. You would then just have to keep in mind that it will always be an inch(ish) below where the bullet is going to hit.
Yah, that's pretty much what I was trying to 'splain in my post, but my english composition is lacking.....It depends on the method of how it is zeroed...Parallel vs Converging...
FYI, Arisaka uses Malkoff heads. I use to be 100% Surefire, not anymore...Modlite and Cloud Defensive lights straight up blows their doors off.For weapon lights, I'll stick with Surefire and Arisaka.
I'm not a high-speed, low-drag operator guy. I just needed to light up a coyote @100 yards with my suppressed Marlin 336 to whack ill-intentioned bubblegum dogs. The Arisaka has performed admirably in this role.FYI, Arisaka uses Malkoff heads. I use to be 100% Surefire, not anymore...Modlite and Cloud Defensive lights straight up blows their doors off.
They are better for sure. We compared a bunch of lights up in Goldendale in pretty much pitch dark, the Modlites and Cloud Defensive lights clearly out classed everything including my SF dual fuel. The one and only advantage the DF has is the ability to handle 123 in addition to 18650 batteries. I put the DF on my 1301 and thing it is great for that purpose but my carbine get Modlites, OKW in the sticks and PLHv2 in urban/suburban, switch heads as required no need to remove and remount lights.I don't mind getting something "better", as long as it truly is.
They do have some good sales deals that come along. I have several of the BALDER-S lights. I'm happy with them tooA little late to the party but I wanted to weigh in here.
I impulse bought an Olight on an open-box deal (BALDR-S) and for the money I'm impressed with it. The build quality is not on the same level as Streamlight or Surefire. The metal feels like like pot metal and the finish looks like rattle can (lol) but everything locks up/clicks into place solidly. For a nightstand pistol I think this is probably just fine.
I just grabbed a BALDR Pro R last week from them. I had a Warrior Mini that was recalled for burning pockets LOL. Seems like a good WML so far.A little late to the party but I wanted to weigh in here.
I impulse bought an Olight on an open-box deal (BALDR-S) and for the money I'm impressed with it. The build quality is not on the same level as Streamlight or Surefire. The metal feels like like pot metal and the finish looks like rattle can (lol) but everything locks up/clicks into place solidly. For a nightstand pistol I think this is probably just fine.