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I process alot of 223 and 308 brass,
I have been using the Lee decapper but the brass I have been get cause the decap pin to slide up or break. I tried out some Squirel Daddy pins and they don't break but still slip. I have tightened the nut on top or should I say cranked it to almost the breaking point.
What are you guys using?
 
I use an FW Arms decapping die. It goes through anything, I have split rocks before, it just adds a new hole to berdan brass. Still on my first pin.

ETA: I just recently picked up another one on the bay - some place had a few Mark 7 branded ones without packaging and extra pins. I got it for $49. They are worth the $69 though.
 
Last Edited:
I process alot of 223 and 308 brass,
I have been using the Lee decapper but the brass I have been get cause the decap pin to slide up or break. I tried out some Squirel Daddy pins and they don't break but still slip. I have tightened the nut on top or should I say cranked it to almost the breaking point.
What are you guys using?
Is the new brass Berdan or Boxer primer?
 
Not Berdan, but heavy crimps
I use a Lee universal decapper on several calibers including 223 and never an issue. Some primers are crimped or swedged in place, just go slower. Once broke free ream the primer pocket to remove the crimp burr and should be good after that.
 
I decided a few years ago that if I'm going to take the time to deprime 223/556, then I'm going to resize it at the same time. Skip an added step to save time and effort.
Squirrel Daddy for the win win.

7B9DF0CF-EEF4-46AF-9859-DE35BD6F9D10.jpeg
 
I use a RCBS decapping die in a Lee APP press. I have done probably 10,000 cases so far with it, mostly 223 and 5.56. I only have broke one pin on something stuck in a case so far. I have driven it through many small flash holes on a particular brand of 223 brass. I learned that brand has red sealant on the primers so I scrap it when I see it. I bought a bulk pack of pins when they were on sale ridiculously cheap and have about 10 lifetimes of spare pins. The only drawback is every few thousand the collar that retains the pin has to be tightened.
 
I decided a few years ago that if I'm going to take the time to deprime 223/556, then I'm going to resize it at the same time. Skip an added step to save time and effort.
Squirrel Daddy for the win win.

View attachment 1906070
Well, I like to clean the brass before it gets anywhere near my sizing die, and they dry better sans primers, so I use a Lee Universal decapping die and a Squirrel Daddy pin. 3 came in the order, and I have yet to need the spares. Also, I have decamped thousands of cases of assorted cartridges and have yet to have the pin slide up. Maybe the mangled tool marks on the collet and die might explain that. It is really torqued on there!
 
Well, I like to clean the brass before it gets anywhere near my sizing die, and they dry better sans primers, so I use a Lee Universal decapping die and a Squirrel Daddy pin. 3 came in the order, and I have yet to need the spares. Also, I have decamped thousands of cases of assorted cartridges and have yet to have the pin slide up. Maybe the mangled tool marks on the collet and die might explain that. It is really torqued on there!
Every piece of brass gets cleaned in my Thumler's with either corn cob or walnut media, then the resizing begins. Finish up with FART cleaning.
 
I've had that issue with the Lee decapping die. But only on one certain brand of 5.56mm Boxer primed brass. Due to undersized flash hole. I tossed them in the scrap brass can. 5.56mm and .223 brass is so common that I don't mess around with the problem children.

Years ago, I used to decap and resize simultaneously after dry tumbling. But 5.56mm/.223, depending on the powder used, often fires dirty. So I got into the habit of decapping, washing in Iosso, drying, then resizing as a separate step. I don't mind the extra work. It's a hobby.
 

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