What did you do today to prep?

[The Heretic]

Ordered some canning lids.

[Amazon] 100-Pack Saffron & Sage Wide Mouth Canning Lids - $12.49 (was $24.99)

May 02, 2024

www.preppingdeals.net

Slowly building up canning supplies. I only have something like a dozen jars. I will watch for jars/lids/etc. supplies on sale. Bimart & Walmart & Amazon have these on sale from time to time.

Not that I have anything except apples to can where I am at, but I could maybe can some meats/stews/etc.

Mostly just building up the capability for when I have an actual garden (and hopefully an orchard) to grow stuff and then can it for the winter. Also, if SHTF and I hunt for meat, it would be nice to have the option to can it for storage.

 

[Flopsweat]

You add vodka to the stew? Ew.

Don't knock it 'till you've tried it.

 

[Mono1]

I will watch for jars/lids/etc. supplies on sale.

I used to buy and sell Lids in high school. Oh *Wait*.

 

[ma96782]

I watched JP.

View: https://youtu.be/9jUzNnmM5qM?si=gt4Y9ysPh-ezh9xb

For the reason of COVID......
I'm making a list of things to buy (more of).

Aloha, Mark

 

[OrPackrat]

Not quiet today but over the weekend on an outing, found one of my diesel electric heaters had a failure of being carbon fouled causing it to get extinguished and eventually not starting...

So, disassembly and cleaning for the first time ever, learning it was easier than I thought and afterwards, it needed some high temp running to burn out the missed deposits.

Got a good weekend of rain to test out the concept of a drying tent using one of those ice fishing tents...

People loved it. However it also turned into a sauna. Time to work out some issues and see about the 2nd generation.

After testing. I need more solar panels to run my trailer as it was needed to plug into AC to run the 12v chargers to provide the additional power that the existing solar panels did not get from the rainy weekend.

 

[Angie]

Well, it's not a 12-valve diesel, but we picked up an analog truck yesterday. The Jeep is mostly analog except for the fuel-injection. This one does not have any computer on it. I've wanted this truck for about 20 years, and it's the exact color I would have picked if I had a choice. I'm so excited!



In other news, my roman chamomile is coming up and I planted the beans and a couple of cabbage in the hoop house over the weekend. We are working on building a couple of outdoor beds. One is done, the other is framed, but I still have to attach the mesh underneath. As you all know, it's been a little wet up here in the PNW and Intermountain West lately. Should be absolutely gorgeous this weekend, though.

We met another neighbor yesterday, so that is good. We are also starting to meet some friends in our town. They have sponsored us to join the Elks. We figured that was about the best chance to meet other adults in the area. Our little town has the largest Elk club in the state, apparently. Kind of difficult to believe.

 

[The Heretic]

Well, it's not a 12-valve diesel, but we picked up an analog truck yesterday. The Jeep is mostly analog except for the fuel-injection. This one does not have any computer on it. I've wanted this truck for about 20 years, and it's the exact color I would have picked if I had a choice. I'm so excited!

Not to be a downer - but any EFI is going to have some IC (Integrated Circuits) in it, and the older the system is, the more vulnerable it will be - early EFI systems being flaky and susceptible to RFI/EMI (unless it has an updated more recent aftermarket EFI system). And that pickup is the era of those early EFI systems.

You might be able to retrofit it with a carb system if this is a concern. Personally, I don't worry too much about such things - my '92 pickup is EFI (my '97 truck is not) as is my 2014 daily driver. My flatbed truck with a 12V Cummins and manual trans is my fallback - but I think EMP/CME/et. al. is just not that likely of a scenario.

 

[Angie]

Not to be a downer - but any EFI is going to have some IC (Integrated Circuits) in it, and the older the system is, the more vulnerable it will be - early EFI systems being flaky and susceptible to RFI/EMI (unless it has an updated more recent aftermarket EFI system). And that pickup is the era of those early EFI systems.

You might be able to retrofit it with a carb system if this is a concern. Personally, I don't worry too much about such things - my '92 pickup is EFI (my '97 truck is not) as is my 2014 daily driver. My flatbed truck with a 12V Cummins and manual trans is my fallback - but I think EMP/CME/et. al. is just not that likely of a scenario.

I think my post was a little confusing. The '86 Jeep has EFI. The '72 K-10 does not. We bought the Jeep a month ago. Went to Sandpoint area to get it. It had been sitting in the barn for 15 years. We purchased the K-10 from the original owner.

Until about a month ago, all we had was a 2019 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2. We knew that was a no-go if SHTF. As we were driving the K-10 home, a sensor took a crap on the Colorado. Have to have a computer to figure out what is wrong with it, which is a prime example of why we felt we needed something much more basic. The Colorado has all the comforts, but my husband doesn't have the skills to fix that. He has the skills to fix both the Jeep and the K-10. We will have some extra parts for both in case of supply chain issues or worse, and will have to start storing and rotating gasoline and Sta-bil.

 

[The Heretic]

I think my post was a little confusing. The '86 Jeep has EFI. The '72 K-10 does not.

The problem is my lack of reading comprehension and lazily skimming over text.

Until about a month ago, all we had was a 2019 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2. We knew that was a no-go if SHTF. As we were driving the K-10 home, a sensor took a crap on the Colorado. Have to have a computer to figure out what is wrong with it, which is a prime example of why we felt we needed something much more basic. The Colorado has all the comforts, but my husband doesn't have the skills to fix that. He has the skills to fix both the Jeep and the K-10. We will have some extra parts for both in case of supply chain issues or worse, and will have to start storing and rotating gasoline and Sta-bil.

Yup - I do not bother with trying to fix my 2014 BMW - I take it to the German car shop in town. I do not have the computer tools for diagnosis. Same for my daughter's 2011 Audi. I could do it - as I know both mechanic and electronic/computer tech - IF I wanted to spend the time/effort and $$$$$$ on tools - but I have zero motivation to do so.

The upside with "Modern" vehicles is that 99% of the time they work well and have fewer issues (unless the mice get into the wiring and other stuff - which has been an issue for me with all of my vehicles ). It is when they stop working that the problems become almost untenable; my daughter's Audi had issues from the outset and we both regret buying that car (her choice - my $) - we will never buy another VAG brand anything - should have been more patient and got her a BMW.

 

[Angie]

The problem is my lack of reading comprehension and lazily skimming over text.


Yup - I do not bother with trying to fix my 2014 BMW - I take it to the German car shop in town. I do not have the computer tools for diagnosis. Same for my daughter's 2011 Audi. I could do it - as I know both mechanic and electronic/computer tech - IF I wanted to spend the time/effort and $$$$$$ on tools - but I have zero motivation to do so.

The upside with "Modern" vehicles is that 99% of the time they work well and have fewer issues (unless the mice get into the wiring and other stuff - which has been an issue for me with all of my vehicles ). It is when they stop working that the problems become almost untenable; my daughter's Audi had issues from the outset and we both regret buying that car (her choice - my $) - we will never buy another VAG brand anything - should have been more patient and got her a BMW.

We believe 100% that newer vehicles are designed NOT to last. They are designed to fail. Just like your refrigerator, range, air compressor, etc. The auto and banking industries (supported by our government) needs Americans to continue to purchase autos every few years. If the public can fix them on their own, they won't purchase new ones. Classic example, I had a 2011 Grand Cherokee that I loved. Back door lock (electric) failed and the rack and pinion needed replacing in the front. They couldn't replace the individual piece that failed, the whole unit needed to be replaced. Those items, along with the new set of tires that I took it in for, were going to cost $4300. So I traded it in for a new 2014 one. I loved that car. With the second one, I got the extended warranty that would have covered the rack and pinion (which famously goes out at around 75000 miles). But, my point is, rather than repair a vehicle that I still liked, I traded it in on a brand new one and while my payment stayed the same because of my trade-in value, I continued my payment for another 5 years instead of the 18 months that were on the 2011. "They" would like us stuck in the payment loop. You'll own nothing and be happy.

Our 2019 Colorado will be the last "new" car we purchase. It's been paid off for a while.

 

[The Heretic]

We believe 100% that newer vehicles are designed NOT to last. They are designed to fail. Just like your refrigerator, range, air compressor, etc. The auto industry (supported by our government) needs Americans to continue to purchase autos every few years. If the public can fix them on their own, they won't purchase new ones. Classic example, I had a 2011 Grand Cherokee that I loved. Back door lock (electric) failed and the rack and pinion needed replacing in the front. They couldn't replace the individual piece that failed, the whole unit needed to be replaced. Those items, along with the new set of tires that I took it in for, were going to cost $4300. So I traded it in for a new 2014 one. I loved that car. With the second one, I got the extended warranty that would have covered the rack and pinion (which famously goes out at around 75000 miles). But, my point is, rather than repair a vehicle that I still liked, I traded it in on a brand new one and while my payment stayed the same because of my trade-in value, I continued my payment for another 5 years instead of the 18 months that were on the 2011. "They" would like us stuck in the payment loop. You'll own nothing and be happy.

I won't disagree that for many brand/models, there is planned obsolescence.

But my last two BMWs lasted for 100K+ miles and 10+ years. AFAIK, my 2004 coupe with 100K miles, that I gave my kids in 2014, and they drove for another 20K+, is still being driven in Texas by my neighbor's college age son after needing a new clutch (for some reason, I think my SIL is hard on clutches).

My 2014 BMW X1 is still going strong with almost 120K miles, despite being almost totaled when rear ended, and driven on our rough potholed graveled country roads getting to/from my home. I plan to keep driving it for a long time as I put less than 5K miles on it per year.

My Toyota pickup needs new clutch and my Dodge truck needs a new trans (endemic 5th gear issues) and front end work - but both run and can be driven, despite being 32 & 27 years old respectively - both have about 200K+ miles on them.

I keep my cars at least 10 years and 100K miles (in addition to what they had when I bought them - I have never bought a brand new car - always used) if I can. I don't think that is too bad.

 

[solv3nt]

I fully expect my new tundra and 4runner to each last 20+ years before I need to do much.

 

[Flopsweat]

I won't disagree that for many brand/models, there is planned obsolescence.

But my last two BMWs lasted for 100K+ miles and 10+ years. AFAIK, my 2004 coupe with 100K miles, that I gave my kids in 2014, and they drove for another 20K+, is still being driven in Texas by my neighbor's college age son after needing a new clutch (for some reason, I think my SIL is hard on clutches).

My 2014 BMW X1 is still going strong with almost 120K miles, despite being almost totaled when rear ended, and driven on our rough potholed graveled country roads getting to/from my home. I plan to keep driving it for a long time as I put less than 5K miles on it per year.

My Toyota pickup needs new clutch and my Dodge truck needs a new trans (endemic 5th gear issues) and front end work - but both run and can be driven, despite being 32 & 27 years old respectively - both have about 200K+ miles on them.

I keep my cars at least 10 years and 100K miles (in addition to what they had when I bought them - I have never bought a brand new car - always used) if I can. I don't think that is too bad.

I put 140k on my Audi before it became not worth it to repair. But then I hept a Pontiac until 170k before that and 180k on a Ford before that. Oh and my Jeep was still going strong at somewhere around 180k when it got totalled. If you're willing to put more than you paid for the car into maintenance and repair, you can probably drive any car 200k + miles.

 

[The Heretic]

I put 140k on my Audi before it became not worth it to repair.

The problem with my daughter's 2011 Audi Q5 was the 2 liter 4 cylinder has a design issue with the pistons and the oil ring.

Audi VW Piston Ring Failure 2.0 TFSI - MINHS Automotive

The piston rings, on the 2.0 and 1.8 TFSI engines pre-dating 2012 (majority of the reports being from the 2.0), let little ...

www.minhsautocare.com

Fortunately, we got a 30 day warranty on the used car, but it took them a month or two to approve the repair, which involved basically replacing the pistons/rings/pins/etc., and then a month to tear it down and fix it.

We don't expect it to last another 80K miles because even though the pistons are upgraded, they can still develop the same problem.

After all that, it started having intermittent quitting issues and the VW/Audi dealer wanted to do a head job, saying the valves and turbo were shot (after they had told us the valves & turbo were fine when they had it apart for the pistons).

We took it to the private repair shop I take my BMW to (Autohaus in Beaverton), and they finally fixed it (sometimes it would be fine, then a week later it would quit again) by replacing all of the ignition coils (it has a coil per cylinder). Since then there have not been many issues, but my daughter is paranoid about it and wishes she had chosen a different car - now when it gets a half quart low on oil she has fits thinking it is burning oil again.

 

[Indy62]

Bought a Dietz oil lantern, oil, and a 400 pack of candles

 

[Indy62]

I won't disagree that for many brand/models, there is planned obsolescence.

But my last two BMWs lasted for 100K+ miles and 10+ years. AFAIK, my 2004 coupe with 100K miles, that I gave my kids in 2014, and they drove for another 20K+, is still being driven in Texas by my neighbor's college age son after needing a new clutch (for some reason, I think my SIL is hard on clutches).

My 2014 BMW X1 is still going strong with almost 120K miles, despite being almost totaled when rear ended, and driven on our rough potholed graveled country roads getting to/from my home. I plan to keep driving it for a long time as I put less than 5K miles on it per year.

My Toyota pickup needs new clutch and my Dodge truck needs a new trans (endemic 5th gear issues) and front end work - but both run and can be driven, despite being 32 & 27 years old respectively - both have about 200K+ miles on them.

I keep my cars at least 10 years and 100K miles (in addition to what they had when I bought them - I have never bought a brand new car - always used) if I can. I don't think that is too bad.

My '97 328i is my daily driver again (had it almost 20 years)..coming up on 200k miles. I've never taken it to the $tealer..do all my own repairs..couldn't afford to have kept it that long if I hadn't. Same with the wife's 2010 X5..just replaced a fuel pump on that one. It'll go to 200K no prob.

 

[The Heretic]

FWIW - I intend to put more into my pickup and my truck than I paid for either of them.

The '97 Dodge I paid $11K for, needs $4-5K to rebuild the transmission (plus more for a clutch, maybe more for the XFer case if it needs to be rebuilt/repaired), probably at least $3-4K for the front end (steering, etc.), $2-3K repairable/rebuildable hubs, $2-3K for each axle for lockers (and probably different gearing. Probably $1-2K for tires/wheels (nothing fancy, just larger/taller). Maybe anywhere from $1K to $10K for engine mods - again, nothing fancy, just a bit more HP and reliability.

Maybe as much as $5-6K for an aluminum flatbed. I have not decided exactly which habitat to get for it, but it will be at least $3-5K for a used S-280 shelter if I can find one, or ten times that much for a Hiatus camper.

I haven't decided what to do with my Toyota - I paid $5600 for it, and I have about $400 more in tires/wheels for it. It needs a new clutch and the engine is worn out. But I want to keep it. I would like to put a Hiatus shell on it.

 

[Flopsweat]

The problem with my daughter's 2011 Audi Q5 was the 2 liter 4 cylinder has a design issue with the pistons and the oil ring.

Audi VW Piston Ring Failure 2.0 TFSI - MINHS Automotive

The piston rings, on the 2.0 and 1.8 TFSI engines pre-dating 2012 (majority of the reports being from the 2.0), let little ...

www.minhsautocare.com

Fortunately, we got a 30 day warranty on the used car, but it took them a month or two to approve the repair, which involved basically replacing the pistons/rings/pins/etc., and then a month to tear it down and fix it.

We don't expect it to last another 80K miles because even though the pistons are upgraded, they can still develop the same problem.

After all that, it started having intermittent quitting issues and the VW/Audi dealer wanted to do a head job, saying the valves and turbo were shot (after they had told us the valves & turbo were fine when they had it apart for the pistons).

We took it to the private repair shop I take my BMW to (Autohaus in Beaverton), and they finally fixed it (sometimes it would be fine, then a week later it would quit again) by replacing all of the ignition coils (it has a coil per cylinder). Since then there have not been many issues, but my daughter is paranoid about it and wishes she had chosen a different car - now when it gets a half quart low on oil she has fits thinking it is burning oil again.

Mine had a naturally aspirated V6 in it. Much less stress on the engine. Solid car. The 2024's have so much electronic stuff in them I don't expect them to last nearly as long.

 

[Mono1]

my new tundra and 4runner

These are Bullet Proof

 

[The Heretic]

SIG Mk 25 9mm, SIG threaded barrel, Armory Craft Compensator, Blazer 124 gr FMJ - FTE (stovepipe)

I picked up the barrel and the comp last week from @ethanww94 for a good price ($150). Started testing it last week with the comp and Blazer FMJ ammo. Noticeably less recoil (or at least, less muzzle flip). Noticeably faster double taps. Problem is about every five rounds I get a stovepipe...

www.northwestfirearms.com