Gold Supporter
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I decided to start my own thread for this gun, it's getting deep into making it functionable...
Here's the video of the journey so far...
After some serious gas to the face I wiped out a cap for the gas key slot... now on the the light strikes.
Aguila 150gn brass FMJBT rounds for testing. Every other round are taking 2 strike to light. So I started looking at the struck ones and they look like shallow strikes pushed back in the bolt. I had to do some clearance grinds on the hammer to get function so I added metal back. No different almost worse. So I start looking at the hammer more and decided to add a clearance cut at the face of the hammer where the bolt catch is. A serious improvement! Hammer swinging far enough to get good penetration. Verified with a clay filled dummy round , my quick and dirty indent gauge! Full power hammer Springs are in the mail. My 308 AR10 has always had this issue. And this gun is made of most of those parts. Forgive my butt ugly hammer, it's more make it work. If I had to do it all over I'd make the lower buffer tube tower higher to avoid some of these issues.
Here's the video of the journey so far...
Aguila 150gn brass FMJBT rounds for testing. Every other round are taking 2 strike to light. So I started looking at the struck ones and they look like shallow strikes pushed back in the bolt. I had to do some clearance grinds on the hammer to get function so I added metal back. No different almost worse. So I start looking at the hammer more and decided to add a clearance cut at the face of the hammer where the bolt catch is. A serious improvement! Hammer swinging far enough to get good penetration. Verified with a clay filled dummy round , my quick and dirty indent gauge! Full power hammer Springs are in the mail. My 308 AR10 has always had this issue. And this gun is made of most of those parts. Forgive my butt ugly hammer, it's more make it work. If I had to do it all over I'd make the lower buffer tube tower higher to avoid some of these issues.