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This question is a very popular one:
What load do I use in my rifle?....
Before we get to the "meat" of this post , you gotta know a few things about how I shoot:
I only use real black powder...
2F is my powder of choice...
If you use 3F for a large caliber rifle ( .50 and above ) back off my load advice by 10 grains or so....
This means in plain English : I usually suggest a starting load of 50 grains of 2F for a .50 caliber rifle...So if you use 3F , start with 40 grains...
Pyrodex can be used like real black powder...but be warned that Pyrodex is not reliable in flintlocks.
If you want to shoot a flintlock , I say again Do not use Pyrodex...unless you like hangfires , failure to fire and the old flash in the pan ...
I try to load as "historically correct" as I can for the rifle in question...This means generally speaking , lighter loads with a loose patch and ball combination...I try not use a short starter and if using a flintlock , prime from my horn...no 4F "priming" powder...
I like the old rule of thumb when trying a new rifle...that is one grain per caliber.
So if you have .50 caliber rifle...start with 50 grains of powder.
You will probably find that your .50 caliber will like a charge of 55-70 grains.
In my experience , most rifles shoot best with a charge that is anywhere from the caliber to about 20-30 grains higher.
For example my Hawken in .54 caliber does its best shooting with a 80 grain charge.
Will it shoot well and handle a larger charge..yes...but at the cost of recoil and more powder used with no real difference in the result on game or the target.
That said there is some truth to the "Double charge" and effectiveness on game...you do read of 19th century accounts of doing this practice.
I have shot my Hawken using a double charge...at close range 25-75 yards the point of impact was the same and the gong did indeed ring "louder" ...suggesting that the ball hit "harder".
But again, as a general rule , your rifle will shoot the best with a load that is the caliber or 20-30 grains higher.
Many facets of your rifle will play a part in your load of choice.
The quality of the rifle will play a role in you load.
Some imports of the 1960's and 70's are little better than wall hangers and one should always load light when a guns quality is suspect.
I have found that as a general rule many rifles with shallow grooves shoot better with a lighter charge and those with deeper grooves , shoot better with a heavier charge.
If you are lucky enough to have and shoot a antique rifle...after checking the rifle for being safe to shoot ...use a lighter load as well...If the antique piece is in sound shape and not of some sort of historical lineage , then there is no reason , not to shoot it , occasionally....in my opinion.
The patch you use is also noteworthy....always use a 100% natural patch.
The thickness can improve accuracy , but if too thick , you will have difficultly in loading your rifle.
I like a thinner patch , with spit as a lube for general shooting or bear grease or deer tallow if hunting.
Store bought patches come in sizes of .5 , .10 , .15 , .18 and .20 ...usually.
Also be aware that one companies .15 might be thicker or looser than another companies .15 patch.
In a different post I have gone over round ball sizes...to sum up :
Use a round ball that is snug with your patch...but not tight enough that you must hammer it home.
For example I use a .530 round ball and a ,15 patch in my .54 Hawken...A .50 caliber rifle might do well with a .490 round ball and a .15 patch.
And just like patches , one companies or brand of ball mould of .530 round ball might differ in size than another brand.
If using a flintlock I prime from my horn....I do not use 4F priming powder.
If you have a quality lock , a clean vent hole and a sharp flint your rifle will go off with 2 or 3F powder.
Yes I know I said "If"...
That said most off the shelf rifles ( T/C ,Lyman , Pedersoli , Traditions etc... ) will do better with 4F priming powder.
Tips for flintlocks ...
Keep a sharp flint...don't use those cheap sawed flints...buy good knapped English or French flints...
Keep your vent hole clean...
"All skill is in vain , if a Angel pees down your vent hole" ...Old German saying...
As a general rule , you do not need a lot of powder in your pan...
I find that for most of my flintlocks the powder in the pan is best placed in the middle of the pan...
And always remember when loading : Powder , patch , then ball...
Andy
What load do I use in my rifle?....
Before we get to the "meat" of this post , you gotta know a few things about how I shoot:
I only use real black powder...
2F is my powder of choice...
If you use 3F for a large caliber rifle ( .50 and above ) back off my load advice by 10 grains or so....
This means in plain English : I usually suggest a starting load of 50 grains of 2F for a .50 caliber rifle...So if you use 3F , start with 40 grains...
Pyrodex can be used like real black powder...but be warned that Pyrodex is not reliable in flintlocks.
If you want to shoot a flintlock , I say again Do not use Pyrodex...unless you like hangfires , failure to fire and the old flash in the pan ...
I try to load as "historically correct" as I can for the rifle in question...This means generally speaking , lighter loads with a loose patch and ball combination...I try not use a short starter and if using a flintlock , prime from my horn...no 4F "priming" powder...
I like the old rule of thumb when trying a new rifle...that is one grain per caliber.
So if you have .50 caliber rifle...start with 50 grains of powder.
You will probably find that your .50 caliber will like a charge of 55-70 grains.
In my experience , most rifles shoot best with a charge that is anywhere from the caliber to about 20-30 grains higher.
For example my Hawken in .54 caliber does its best shooting with a 80 grain charge.
Will it shoot well and handle a larger charge..yes...but at the cost of recoil and more powder used with no real difference in the result on game or the target.
That said there is some truth to the "Double charge" and effectiveness on game...you do read of 19th century accounts of doing this practice.
I have shot my Hawken using a double charge...at close range 25-75 yards the point of impact was the same and the gong did indeed ring "louder" ...suggesting that the ball hit "harder".
But again, as a general rule , your rifle will shoot the best with a load that is the caliber or 20-30 grains higher.
Many facets of your rifle will play a part in your load of choice.
The quality of the rifle will play a role in you load.
Some imports of the 1960's and 70's are little better than wall hangers and one should always load light when a guns quality is suspect.
I have found that as a general rule many rifles with shallow grooves shoot better with a lighter charge and those with deeper grooves , shoot better with a heavier charge.
If you are lucky enough to have and shoot a antique rifle...after checking the rifle for being safe to shoot ...use a lighter load as well...If the antique piece is in sound shape and not of some sort of historical lineage , then there is no reason , not to shoot it , occasionally....in my opinion.
The patch you use is also noteworthy....always use a 100% natural patch.
The thickness can improve accuracy , but if too thick , you will have difficultly in loading your rifle.
I like a thinner patch , with spit as a lube for general shooting or bear grease or deer tallow if hunting.
Store bought patches come in sizes of .5 , .10 , .15 , .18 and .20 ...usually.
Also be aware that one companies .15 might be thicker or looser than another companies .15 patch.
In a different post I have gone over round ball sizes...to sum up :
Use a round ball that is snug with your patch...but not tight enough that you must hammer it home.
For example I use a .530 round ball and a ,15 patch in my .54 Hawken...A .50 caliber rifle might do well with a .490 round ball and a .15 patch.
And just like patches , one companies or brand of ball mould of .530 round ball might differ in size than another brand.
If using a flintlock I prime from my horn....I do not use 4F priming powder.
If you have a quality lock , a clean vent hole and a sharp flint your rifle will go off with 2 or 3F powder.
Yes I know I said "If"...
That said most off the shelf rifles ( T/C ,Lyman , Pedersoli , Traditions etc... ) will do better with 4F priming powder.
Tips for flintlocks ...
Keep a sharp flint...don't use those cheap sawed flints...buy good knapped English or French flints...
Keep your vent hole clean...
"All skill is in vain , if a Angel pees down your vent hole" ...Old German saying...
As a general rule , you do not need a lot of powder in your pan...
I find that for most of my flintlocks the powder in the pan is best placed in the middle of the pan...
And always remember when loading : Powder , patch , then ball...
Andy
Last Edited: