Gold Supporter
- Messages
- 24,750
- Reactions
- 37,580
- Thread Starter
- #21
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Since I am starting with a 6" barrel that means I can cut down the bloop tube to around 12.5 inches or so. I want to have at least an inch of overlap with the tube over the barrel maybe closer to two inches. The barrel OD is .630 and the ID of copper tube is about .550. That is .080 that needs to come off the barrel OD or copper tube ID. The wall thickness of copper tube is .040 so I don't really want to thin that out much more. The barrel walls are .120 thick. If I took off .040 of the barrel walls that would get me my .080 overall diameter reduction. My barrel walls would then be .080 thick. My G22 factory barrel is a little over .090 thick. My M&P 40 barrel has about .082 thick walls. All the wall thickness measurements were taken in the grooves. That would probably be acceptable wall thickness?JMHO, but the risk is low. Most "it's going blow up" predictions are based on a formula for sealed pressure vessels, but the extension isn't sealed. I would be more concerned about a bullet strike if the tube flexes under recoil.
I will be shooting slowly, no mag dumping. I borrowed a sraight edge from the tool section and went through all the pipe pieces they had. This was the straightest of them all but not perfect over the two foot length. There will only be about 10 to 11 inches exposed to bullet travel so hopefully the tube stays straight. With an ID of .550 and a .401 bullet there isn't a lot of room to spare. If I was adding a bloop tube to a rifle I would go with bigger diameter but since I am limited by size of slide barrel hole this is the best I can do.Once the bullet clears the muzzle the gas will expand past it dramatically lowering pressure, so if it was me I would not be concerned about it. The big variable would be how temperature would effect the coper tube. In theory I think you *could* get it hot enough for the tube to flex a bit more than normal, but I have never seen any test along those lines like with AL or TI suppressor melt downs and I think it would take a giggle switch to get it that hot